SAILING 2003

PHOTO PAGE

July 5, 2003

The beginning of a long sailing year.  The annual preparations were completed in Preveza, Greece and a repeat visit to Corfu to pick up friends.  Then westward to new territory: Catania, Sicily.  The east coast of Sicily was revisited with three sets of passengers and thoroughly enjoyed each time.  The picturesque town of Syracusa lends little resemblance to its namesake in New York.  Though infrequently visited by tourists, it has made the effort to restore cathedrals, and squares.  The town dock was free for tying up and staying as long as desired with the only charge for electricity and water.  The gelato stand was only 30 feet away and the evening public stroll (passageata) came past our boat each evening from 7-10.  Newly married couples would make the trek and there would often be musical presentations.  Restaurants were picturesque, the food was memorable and the service very unhurried making dinner an all evening affair.  Though we could have remained a lifetime the schedule dictated that we move on.  Moving northward, Catania was the place to see the most luscious pastries, artistically painted marzipan, and fresh food and fish market.  The fish were so fresh they were still jumping on their beds of crushed ice.  The cacophony of fish sellers calling to us was something out of a movie and we felt as though we were part of a set.  Mount Etna overshadowed everything and smoked on and off though no one seemed to worry.  Each night we anchored in another picturesque bay and went ashore to explore and sample more local specialties - often pizza.   Taormina, a popular tourist haunt north of Catania, was crowded, though picturesque with beautiful views of the harbor. Local art displays surrounded cafes where tired sightseers lolled over a lemon drink and pastry or pannini type sandwich.  

The crossing to the mainland at Reggia de Calabria, the tip of the toe, to fuel and rest was a slow rough ride because the wind and tide were against us in the Messina Straits.   Fuel was low so we first headed to the fuel dock which was built for much larger ships and had to climb up a four foot wall to get up to the fuel pumps.  CHRISTIANNE was a very small vessel compared to the others, but they did find a place for us to dock up, get a night sleep, a great meal, and wait out some very rough seas.  The second half of the Straits of Messina were tackled the next day and we timed our departure to coincide with the tide change and made a quick smooth ride through the Straits for a short stop at the town of Scilla.  The town where Odysseus, after surviving the numerous whirlpools in the Straits, met Scylla, the monster with six heads and twelve arms which would pluck sailors off their boats.  We arrived on a Sunday morning, and anchored among the small fishing boats.  The water was shallow but very clear so we dinghied carefully watching the bottom and picking our way between the seafloor rocks and then scrambled up the slippery moss covered boat ramp.  The town was a labyrinth of narrow alley walkways with laughter and fantastic cooking smells coming from every doorway.  The fishing fleet included swordfish boats adapted with high towers and enormous bowsprits used to spear the sword fish as they sleep on the surface; as well as the ever present brightly painted little fishing boats.  We satisfied our curiosity about Scylla and left before the six headed monster realized we were there.

Having passed the Straits of Messina we toured the Aeolian Islands on the northeast coast of Sicily.  This area was the home of King Aoelius, god of the winds.  He gave Odysseus a bag containing all of the contrary winds so his progress home would not be delayed.  The crew thinking it contained gold opened it when Odysseus slept just as Ithaca was coming into sight. The winds blew him backward and he spent the next 10 years fighting against them.  The week before we arrived a freak wind damaged dozens of boats and sunk four; I guess someone pulled the stopper out of the bag again.  The volcanic island of  Isla Volcano had the hot mud as advertised but the water wasn't hot or deep enough and it was full of European tourists flowing off ferry boats like the tides.  This was the legendary entrance to Hades where Vulcan resided.  The anchorage was packed during the day with day tripper motor boats from Palermo but was quiet and very beautiful at night with its volcanic cocpoli extending far above the water.  Snorkeling around their base was colorful and interesting.  The neighboring island of Lipari was a tourist Mecca with shopping, restaurants and the tightest most expensive marina seen before or since. The cost was 100 Euros for one night's dockage cramped a fender width from our neighbor.  The view from every window was white fiberglass six inches away.  Departure to Stromboli, a very active volcano, with a lovely anchorage was welcome and a wonderful sail.  The Mediterranean is known for winds that are too strong or non existent so beautiful sailing days were an infrequent pleasure.  The following morning we had a coating of volcanic dust all over the boat.  We experienced the full wrath of the Mediterranean wind in a small harbor on the island of  Proceda.  It was a pleasant town with the town dock fully protected from the wind except for the entrance.  With heavy winds forecast it was a welcome refuge.   The wind hit at 2 AM  with a bang.  The sails were tied and everything was removed from the decks.  Jack was sleeping on deck partly to escape the heat but also to be there when the storm came. For one hour the wind tore into the harbor opening causing sails to tear and anchors to pull lose, piling boat upon boat, smashing many into the cement town wall.  The situation was exhausting and dangerous but, with the exception of the German boat, everyone helped each other in at least four languages and agreed in the morning that it had been a nice experience working together. Everyone survived with varying amounts of damage, we had some gel coat scrapes.