Reflections on a wonderful trip aboard the S/V Christianne – July/August, 2001
"Hos geldiniz" are the Turkish words of welcome, and a very welcome bottle of ice-cold water from Elizabeth greeted each of us as Michael and I arrived at the marina in Antalya, Turkey. So began a fabulous cruise aboard the sailing vessel Christianne that was to take us around the southwestern coast of Turkey, with stops at both Turkish and Greek islands in the Aegean Sea. Three joyful weeks awaited us sailing with our good friends, the Loda family, Jack, Elizabeth, Christianne and their regal Siamese cat, Hannah. No better way exists to experience these ancient civilizations than to crew with these great sailors on board their Jeanneau Sun Fast 52.
Contrasting images remain in my memory:
Hazy gray mountains in the morning sun; hot, hot days; cool breezes in secluded coves at the end of the day – quiet except for the sound of goat-bells as the animals carefully make their way down the hill-sides; Noisy celebrations by Greek children dancing in commemoration of a battle long ago fought and won; The impressive Greek theater at Aspendos, Turkey, and the Greco-Roman archeological site at Perge; A recently opened marina, with its sumptuous marble showers, at Mamaris, Turkey.
A sunken city with stairways carved into the rocks and the remains of wine and water amphorae scattered along the sea floor viewed through remarkably clear water; Kale Koy – a small hill fortress where young girls dressed in baggy Turkish trousers and headscarves bargain for the sale of embroidered parayas and beaded bracelets, while guiding visitors through rows of brightly colored rugs displayed along steep village paths.
The star and crescent of the red Turkish flag at Kale Koy ; The sight of the blue and white flag of Greece flying atop the Crusaders Castle, seen after the captain and crew of the Christianne had moored med-style, stern-to, at the port of Rhodes! The yacht’s sleek cat, Hannah, perfectly described as the feline goddess of the vessel; The bevy of stray cats in residence behind the old sea wall at the port.
A refreshing swim in a peaceful anchorage and the captain assisting me in a dive to view the anchor; four adventures collecting pumice stones in Nissyros , on a hike into a bubbling sulphurous volcanic crater; Quietly viewing the small but richly adorned Greek Orthodox church built along a row of blue and white fishing homes; Exploring the fourth century Byzantine Church of St. Nicholas, Bishop of Myra – the original Santa Claus and a priest much loved by sailors for his help in calming the sea from the effects of the Meltemi winds; the enormous Sultan Ahmet mosque with its wonderful blue glazed tiles and the mighty dome of the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul.
A traditional lunch served at the table placed on a slab of stone in the peacefully flowing river near Aspendos, Turkey; late dinners at lively restaurants in small Greek ports; Sophisticated dining at the Sultan Ahmet Saray Hotel in Istanbul. Covered bazaars along narrow winding streets where vendors sell porcelain, cotton cushion covers and tablecloths, brass ornaments, leather goods and, of course, traditionally patterned hand- knotted rugs; Large designer showrooms where, as apple tea is being served, expert salesmen demonstrate the beauty of dozens of cotton, woolen and silk carpets.
In Turkey we climbed over rocks to view Lycian tombs carved high into the cliff-side; On the Island of Samos (the birthplace of Pythagorus the mathematician) we descended into a tunnel excavated through the mountain, as a water conduit and as a means of escaping from enemies. In Kos the home of Hippocrates the "Father of Medicine" we bought a copy of the Hippocratic oath for our medical student daughter Elizabeth, and with the Lodas we strolled around the sanctuary of Asclepius.
I remember small brightly colored Greek fishing boats and Turkish Guillets that transport vacationers to quiet coves for swimming and snorkeling. Mike and I puttered to shore by dinghy to explore a little Greek church on a tiny island; There was a fast trip by ferry from the island of Samos, Greece, to Kusadasi, Turkey. Modern luxury yachts, ferries and freighters plowed the waters of the busy Bosphorus. I think of orthodox priests leading a procession through a small Greek port and recall the sounds of a muzzein calling the faithful to prayers in Turkey.
A kaleidoscope of memories. A wonderful trip.