Turkey is a wonderful country filled with friendly welcoming people and a history that dates back 6000 years. In addition to the well known tourist sites with restored ruins, we found remnants of ancient civilizations everywhere along the coastline as we sailed. We stayed in only a few marinas which were extremely nice, cost $25-35 per night and beat any US marina I have visited. The majority of overnights were divided between town docks and isolated anchorages. While the marinas were convenient with showers, laundry, E-Mail and supermarkets (all the things a sailor really craves), the small towns and the anchorages were definitely my favorites.
Antalya Turkey was the end point of the Indian Ocean and Red Sea crossing last year and is the jumping off point for the Mediterranean adventure for the year 2001. The town of Antalya is large, very modern and known as the Riviera of Turkey. Many restaurants, a large vegetable and spice market, and great shopping. Elizabeth started her rug buying crusade here learning very quickly the art of bartering with merchants who are very charming, have a history going back thousands of years and ethics below that of a used car salesman. Once they have lured you into their shop you will be offered a comfortable seat and regular or apple tea (cay). The usual questions about your health and where you are from start while tea is served. This is always a social experience and not just a quick window shopping. Then the rugs come out, kilims, silk rugs, wool on wool, wool on cotton etc. After 30 minutes there could be 30 rugs laid out on the floor before you. The bargaining really starts at this point since nothing has a price tag on it and they have been reluctant to give any prices when asked. Finally after 3-4 favorites are chosen the selling starts. The price they give is always "a very special price just for you" because it is the "first sale of the day" or the "last sale" or any reason they can come up with. Elizabeth only considers this starting point and goes right for their jugular offering them about one-third of that and the bargaining begins. They will give you stories about how valuable and what a rich history the carpet has and how poor his family is, this is where I think we should pay what he asks and Elizabeth wishes I would leave. More tea and carpets plus the threat of walking out usually brings the dickering to a close with the price settling more or less at one-half of the original, and with Elizabeth, usually less. They will never sell a carpet for less than it is worth no matter what they say and with think you a fool if you pay too much.
It's not all rugs, as Antalya's surrounding area is rich in history. A short ride out of town will bring you to Perge, an ancient city which was founded after the Trojan wars and was overrun by Alexander the Great in the 4th century BC. One can easily see the main streets with ruts in the stone from countless wagon wheels, the aqueducts bringing water into the city, and the argon, the governmental and trading areas. The infrastructure is amazing with it's network of roads, plumbing to get water in and waste out of the city and homes, for the rich and poor; all of course made from stone and some wood. Perge also has a sports stadium which is un restored and is off the official bus tour route, but it is open and all one has to due is wander around and look. It has ramped entry tunnels just like today's stadiums but this one has a fenced off area where the lions fought other lions and unfortunate people. A few miles further on is the amphitheater of Aspindos built by the Romans around 200AD. It is the best restored in Asia and while not the largest, it seats only 17,000(!), it is a magnificent structure with its "backstage" structure still standing. Performances are still given there by modern orchestras. Traditionally the rich and important sat in the first rows, with the men filling the middle section. The women were allowed next and the slaves above them. I sat in several of the seats wondering who had "season tickets" for this seat 2000 years ago. Climbing to the top reminded me to get more exercise, but as I settled into a slave seat a tourist got up on the stage and started to sing. Fortunately he had an excellent voice and while my view was distant, the sound was not; the acoustics were incredible, the slaves never missed a word. At the entrances and along the back of the structure were small shops similar to today's stadiums, although I doubt that they sold T shirts and hot dogs. The city of Side, just a few miles away was under re construction and overrun with tourists so we cut our visit short, it was time to go sailing.
