Kava or yaqona drinking has been a part of the Polynesian culture for centuries and becomes increasing more important as one travels West, with Fiji being the most traditional of the South Pacific. Kava is the root of a pepper plant piper methysticum and is non-alcoholic and non-narcotic but causes some numbness in the tongue and throat and gives a slightly euphoric feeling. The root used to be chewed by the women of the village into a pulpy mass, spit into the tanoa, a carved wooden bowl, water added and the mix strained through a bundle of vegetable fiber. A half of coconut shell (bilo) would be filled and passed to everyone in order of importance. The bilo should be drained in one draft followed by a cry of “maca”, meaning it is drained and the clap of hands. The bilo is then refilled and given to the next person of rank and the whole procedure repeated. This is strictly a male activity and is not performed for tourists in Fiji where it retains great importance.
I was asked to come to the meeting hall around 7:00PM that evening to take part in the ceremony. I found the hall in the pitch dark and sat down in the rear of the group. A few years ago, if anyone walked between the kava bowl and the chief, he was immediately killed. I didn't know if the new and less hostile format had reached this island, but I wasn't going to chance it. The hall was a small building with 1 room lit by a single Coleman lantern hanging from the ceiling. About 15 men were there sitting on a mat on the floor with the tanoa in the center. Someone came over and asked me to move up in front of the tanoa next to Chief. I brought some extra Kava root (big mistake) to show my appreciation. The ceremony began, traditional but low key as some of the root was placed in a motor and pestle and pounded into powder.
The Kava root is harvested by just pulling it from the ground and of course is covered with dirt. This is the way it is packaged and used, so when it is ground up all the dirt is retained. Once the grinding is complete the mix is put in what looks like someone’s old T-shirt, placed in the tanoa as water is added. The master now kneads the bag till all the Kava extract and dirt are dissolved into the mixture. This may take 5 minutes when the bag is wrung out and more water added until the mixture is the right consistency. When the master is satisfied he claps and fills the bilo and hands it to Chief, who drains it, claps and hands it back. It is refilled and given to one of the village elders who do the same. I am next, as an honored guest, it looks like dirty water, it smells like dirty water and tastes worse than dirty water.
I drained it and handed it back figuring I had survived one round and since the tanoa was getting empty as the bilo was given to all the others present I figured maybe only one additional round. Wrong, as I heard more root being powered up. They were using the Kava they had plus the additional I brought, so there was plenty. It translated into along night with 10 or 12 rounds all exactly the same as the first. I kept drinking that stuff down when it was my turn to keep up with the boys, and it seemed to earn some respect. My tongue was getting a little numb but I didn’t feel much else, the others seemed to be experiencing much more with gasping and the pounding of the chest after draining the bilo. Very little discussion went on during this time with most being directed toward me in the form of questions covering everything. Finally we were out of Kava root and the tanoa was empty. I thanked Chief, the elder and others in order of importance and everyone got up and left. It was a stormy night outside and Elizabeth was concerned about the boat anchor dragging and the length of time I was gone. Fearing I made have committed a social blunder and been eaten. After brushing my teeth 15 or 20 times I described the evenings events.
The next day everyone that was present went out of his way to say hello. I guess it was a male bonding experience. I’m glad I was invited, it was a great experience that few outsiders witness in its traditional form, but please, wash the Kava root next time.
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