July 13 ,1999

Dear Everyone,

Internet access is certainly not what we had expected worldwide. We had only a limited access via a marine agent who sent messages out for us in the Galapagos and now in Papeete we are having trouble finding an Internet connection again. Sea mail still doesn't work, I think we're just a little too early. The Iridium telephone is working sometimes and takes some of our messages. It is hard to believe that we have sailed ourselves so far away from home. We spent two weeks in the Marquesas and had some very nice times. Then we sailed to the next French Polynesian Island group, Tuamotus, stopping at the black pearl atoll, Manihi, where I found out that black pearls have seasons and this isn’t the season. Nevertheless, I persevered and found a pearl farm that would show me around. The pearls are far more expensive that I had expected. Also, even the farmers won't sell them for less from the farm.

Last night we went to the Papeete dance competition. It is in preparation for Fete (the Polynesian holiday that goes along with Bastille Day). Some of the dancing and the rhythms were terrific. We saw a grass skirt and coconut top at the market today.  We were tempted but decided we'd never wear them. There were canoe races today, also for Fete.  More than fifty outrigger canoes were lined up and then took off at the start.  We kept up with them in the dinghy but with our outboard screaming.  We got some good video photos. It only took us 36 hours from Manihi to Tahiti; very good time with our spinnaker. We made fresh water all the way.
Everyone has settled into the boat life routine and we're doing fine. Hope we find an Internet cafe to post all these letters.

Love,
Elizabeth and Jack

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